





























✓ 




THE 




A CORRECT PLAN OF COLOURING 

l 

WOOIANS WOOLEN , COTTON, 

AND 

LINEN CLOTHS: 

FOR 

MILLING, FINISHING, &c. 

OF 

ESFoolm ©lotfcs. 



PRINTED BY EZEKIEL HARRIS, 

. 1832 .. 















DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, TO WIT: 

BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the 2d day 
of December Anno Domini, 1831, Hazael Warfield, 
C g ) of the said District, has deposited in this Office tho 
f ' title of a book the title of which is in the words fol- 
lowing, to wit: 

“The Clothiers Guide, a correct plan of colouring wool, and 
“woolen , cotton, and linen cloths: together with direction* 
“for milling, finishing, &c. of woolen cloths, by Hazael War- 
“field , Pennsylvania.” 

The rierht whereof he claims as author in conformity with an 
act of Congress, entitled “An act to amend the several act* 
respecting copy-rights.” 

E. JT. ROBERTS, 

Clerk of the Western District of Pennsylvania. 


(} G> Q 


/ - 



PREFACE. 


The design of the Clothiers Guide is to furnish 
an easy and uniform system of Manufacturing 
Cloths, for the use of all practictioners; and the 
public in general may be benifited by it likewise. All 
who are engaged in this important business have 
many difficulties to encounter, I have endeavour¬ 
ed to lay as easy, and correct directions as possi¬ 
ble, and have spoken the plain language of the 
Dyer. 1 have practised in this business many 
years, during the whole time I have spared no pains 
in trying to gain information, although our busi¬ 
ness has not come to perfection, yet there are ma¬ 
ny improvements to be made, even in Europe In 
addition to my own experience, 1 have endeavour¬ 
ed to gain all possible information from other 
sources; and now offer this important work to the 
public, for the improvement of our business in the 
United States. It is in this important business the 
welfare of our Country in a great measure de¬ 
pend. I have endeavoured to arrange the re¬ 
ceipts for colouring in the best possible manner 
for woolen, cotton, and linen goods, and also the 
management of the colours, and the process of 
milling, dressing, and finishing of cloth. I have in 
all respects endeavoured to show the best and easi¬ 
est method practised in our line of business, many 
of the receipts for colouring, have been sold at the 
high price of twenty or thirty dollars, and the buy¬ 
er prohibited from communicating them to any one 
else. By this means useful discoveries are some¬ 
times wholy lost, and our improvement progresses 
but slowly. One reason why our business is so 
badly managed in this country, is, that many prac¬ 
tictioners, think themselves master of the busines* 


V 


TREFACE. 


before they are in any wise capable of colouring 
or milling cloth, and theretore defraud their cus¬ 
tomers, if they can make a flashy looking colour, 
finish cloth in some sort of style; they can then 
get employment, and by that means, deprive the 
faithful workman of carrying on his business as 
extensively as he would, had he a fair chance. 
1 hope this work may prove beneficial, even to 
the best of workman (as there is great room for 
improvement). The rules of manufacturing are 
so plainly explained, a man by purchasing a single 
copy, without any previous expence, may, by fol- 
lowingthese rules closely, become an excellent 
workman, and serviceable man to the community 
at large; whereas to serve an apprenticeship to the 
business, the apprentice must serve five or six 
years, and perhaps at the expiration of the time, 
the master may refuse to give receipts, unless he 
obtains an extra price for them, of ten or fifteen 
dollars; and thus the apprentice buys his informa¬ 
tion at a dear rate, To remedy this inconvenience 
.1 have endeavoured to set forth the^easiest method 
for colouring: in setting blue vats, the dyer 
should follow the directions very close, as this is an 
important point and needs strict attention. 


THE 


OLCTHIEES GUIDB. 


DIRECTIONS FOR MILLING CLOTH. 

Trim the nots off, fold it over on the floor, take* 
soft soap and sig equal quantities and as much river wa¬ 
ter, warm them together to blood heat and sprinkle 
your cloth thinly over, lay it in the mill, let it run 
one hour, take out and hand once if it feels sticky sprin¬ 
kle again, lay it in let it run one hour or till it feels slip- 
ery, rince the soap and grease out ifit be intended for 
any dark colour (except blue) colour it drab, dry it, take 
hard soap shave it up in water, simmer it over the fire 
until dissolved, cool it with v> ater to the consistency of 
strong suds, sprinkle your cloth and lay it in the mill let 
it run hand over every two hours, till it attains the thick¬ 
ness required. 


THE FORM OF A BLUE VAT AND OTHER 
UTENSILS NECESSARY FOR DYING. 

1st, The vat ought to he made of pine staves two in¬ 
ches thick, five feet long and wider at one end than the 
other so as to make the vat in the shape of a firkin and 
large enough to contain three hundred and sixty gallon, 
the head should be in the largest end and set in the 
ground half way up and a tight cover to fit close with a 
hole of four inches square in the cover for the purpose 
of admitting the dye stirring &c, with a small cover to 
fit that close when required—the vat should he set close 
to the copper with the top some lower than the cock or 
spout of the copper so as to have a small trunk to convey 
the liquor from the copper to the vat. 

2d. A rake should be prepared of pine plank one inch 
thick, of an oval form, fifteen inches one way and eight 

a2 



6 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


the other with a hole in the middle to admit a handle, 
the handle should be of sufficient length to reach the 

bottom. 

3d. There should be a riddle fixed about ten inches 
from the bottom of the vat; it should be as large as the 
top of the vat would admit and hung by four cords from 
the top of the vat for the purpose of drawing it up when 
required with cords or splits across to prevent the goods 
from sinking on the sedaments, a weight should be plac¬ 
ed in the middle of the riddle for the purpose of keep¬ 
ing it to its place. 

4th. There should be a bar across the vat about two 
iocbes in diameter and placed about six inches from the 
top. 

5th. The Handlers are made with iron hooks bent 
around with notches in to hold to the cloth, and wood¬ 
en handles to draw the cloth out by. 

TO SET AND PREPARE THE VAT FOR COL¬ 
OURING. 

Fill the vat half full of hot water, dissolve eight 
pounds of potash in eight gallons of warm water, fill 
your copper with water, add half the potash lye and 
five pounds of madder, four quarts of wheat bran, keep a 
moderate fire, let it simmer half an hour with frequent 
stirring, turn this into the vat; lake five pounds of in¬ 
digo wet with one gallon of the potash lye and grind 
it well, then fill your copper with water, add the re¬ 
mainder of the potash lve (be careful in pouring it off 
as the sedaments is injurious to the dye) add the com¬ 
pound of indigo, &c. and four pounds of woad, stir 
this{continually, keep a moderate fire, let it simmer but 
not boil; then turn it into the vat and stir well until well 
mixed together; cover it close & let it stand two hours; 
then add four ounces of borax, stir well, and let it stand 
twelve hours. If it does not come to work, take two 
quarts of unslacked lime, and six quarts df water, put 
them into a vessel proper for the purpose, stir them 
Well together, let it stand till settled, pour the lye off 
the lime into the vat, stir well, cover close, and let it 



THE CLOTHIERS GLIDE* 


7 


stand two hours. The symptoms of the rive being g* 
to^work may be known by the rising of a fine copper col¬ 
oured scum on the top of the dye. and likewise a froth 
rising called the head; the dye will look green, and ;be 
doth diped in it wiiliook green also uil it comes to the 
air. 

PROCESS OF PREPARING CLOTHS FOR 
BLUE AND THE MODE OF COLOURING. 

For forty pounds of cloth well ciensed of grease, soap 
dec. fill your copper with pure water, warm it. add ibsc 
ounces of pearl ash. run the doth in this liquor abowr 
ten minutes, then role it out and let it drain. Then fold 
it up smooth on the side of the rat, toss one end over 
the cross bar, and let another person be on the other 
side with his handlers to poke it down in the eve; it 
should be handled aery lire!? and quick. W hen the 
doth is all in the dye rat, draw it over and over the cross 
bar very quick for ten or fifteen minutes, and then if the 
dye be ripe and hot the cloth may be taken out, bat if 
cool oi weak let it remain in an hour. 

In taking the cloth out of the rat it is necessarr to 
use dispatch; place it on cross pieces over the rat so as 
the dye will drain in the rat, cover the rat close, bang 
the cloth in the air nil it is cool, at the same time if you 
have more doth, prepare it as described before, in the 
copper of pearl ash water. 

This process must be observed every time you dip; 
two dippings is generally sufficient the first colouring, 
then air one hour ricce and you will have a good co¬ 
lour. 

If ycu find the dye does not colour fast, cover close 
and let it stand an Lour or two; when the dye gels coo! 
bale it into the copper and heat it again nearly to boding 
hot, then turn it into the vat and cover it up. add two 
pounds of pearl ash. stir well; and let it stand ten or 
twelve hours; then stir it and let it stand two hours; then 
it will be fit to colour; colour in it as long as it will 
make a good colour; then recruit as before, only take 


8 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


care to omit two pounds of pot ash and one pound of 
indigo out of the quantity, and the dye must foment 
which will be sooner than at first. The dyer must have 
judgment about manageing his dye and colouring ; take 
care always to keep the cloth in with frequent airing till 
the colour suits; it will always look green when first tak¬ 
en out of the dye until it gels air. 

When you are done colouring uncover the dye, let 
it have air and you may preserve the dye many years; 
after recruiting several times you must bale the dye off 
and throw out the sedament as it is injurious to the dye; 
if the sedaments are all taken out the dye will not work 
so soon as if they are left in. 

ANOTHER METHOD FOR BLUE. 

THE BEST FOR YARN OR WOOL. 

To set a tub of six gallons, take five gallons of sig, to 
which add half a pint of spirits of wine, take half a pound 
of indigo make it fine, put it in a bag. wet it and rub it 
out in the dye; then add two ounces of pearl ash, two 
ounces of madder, stir & mix it all together, let it stand 
twenty four hours then add half a pint of wheat bran, 
stir and mix it all together; let it stand twenty-four 
hours longer. If the dye does not come to work in this 
time stir it every two hours—though dont apply the 
goods till there is a copper scum or froth rises and the 
dye looks greenish when disturbed ; after you begin to 
color always keep indigo in the bag and rub it in often 
add a little madder. 

This dve must not be hot more than luke warm, it 
will not color so fast as the other though it will make a 
superior colour; it sometimes takes two or three days 
to make a colouring in this dye. The tub should be 
kept close covered while the goods are in the dye only 
take it out about every six honrs and let it have air, &c. 

N. B. The tub should be kept close from the time 
you set your dye till you are done colouring only when 
necessity requires it to be opened. 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


9 


TO CLEAN A COPPER. 

Take four ounces of allum, two ounces of oil of vit¬ 
riol, one quart ot vinegar; put them all together in an 
earthen pot, warm it over the fire, dip a woolen cloth 
in the liquor, rub and scour it about the copper ivell, let 
it stand fifteen minutes, rince with cold water, and it 
will be fit for any colour. 

A GENERAL RULE. 

I will describe it as a general rule in all my colouring 
to take about twenty pounds of cloth at a colouring, 
though any quantity may be colored by these directions 
by making use of dye stuff in proportion; it is best to 
weigh the cloths to be exact because the wedth, thick¬ 
ness, &c. makes material difference; no dye’s ought to 
be crowded, for it will not make so good a colour and 
it is no advantage to crowd the dye for the cloth will 
take the most of the colouring matter out of all dyes 
except blue and red, and they may easily be recruited. 


FOR NAVY BLUE. 

Fill your copper with wafer, bring it to boil, take one 
and a half pounds of coperas, three fourths of a pound 
of blue vitriol, mix them together, add this compound 
to the boiling water, stir well, run the cloth two hours 
or more with frequent airing. 

Empty and rince the copper, fill with pure water take 
eight pounds of logwood chipped or ground and put in 
the copper, boil over night, slacken the fire, add a half 
pound of madder, let it simmer half an hour, run the 
cloth in 25 minutes, wind up, air, run half an hour more, 
air, add one ounce of verdigries pulverized, run and air 
several times and hang the cloth up in the air till next 
morning; soap it well, lay it in the mill, let it run fifteen 
imnutes, rince the soap out & you will have a good color. 


10 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


TO MAKE CHYMIC. 

Take four pounds of oil of vitriol, put it in a stone or 
glass vessel, add one pound of indigo well pulverized, 
stir it well together, let it stand six days with frequent 
stirring or until it foments: it will give a sign by rising 
up and will appear frothy, then it[is fit for use and is \u- 
ry good in light blues, greens, &c. 

TO MAKE SKY BLUE* 

Fill the Copper with pure water, bring it to a boil, 
add two ounces of chymic, run the cloth in fifteen min¬ 
utes, wind up, air, add a little more chymic, run the 
cloth in and manage in this way till the colour is that 
which you wish, you may save this chymic twelve months 
or more. 


TO MAKE A GREEN. 

Take eight pounds of fustic chips, boil them well, 
run the cloth in the liquor one hour, wind up, add a 
little 3 . 11 um, run the cloth in fifteen minutes; add a gill 
of chymic, stir well, run again, add of the chymic and 
manage in this way till the colour suits you. 

You must never add dye-stuff of any kind while the 
cloths are in the dye. 

FOR GREEN. 

Take six pounds of fustic chips, boil them well, run 
the cloth one hour, air, add a little allum, run again, 
odd a little chymic, run again, air, rince, empty, rinco 
and fill the copper, bring it to boil, add one pound of 
logwood and one pound of fustic, boil well, run iho 
cloth in one hour, air and saden with copperas. 

FOR BOTTLE GREEN. 

Take six pounds of fustic, boil it well, run the doth 
in one hour, air, add a little allum, run the cloth fifteen 




THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 


li 


minutes, air, add twoounces of chymic, run half an hour, 
air, rince, add three pounds of logwood, boil well, run 
the cloth one hour, air, add one pound of copperas, pul¬ 
verize four ounces of virdigries, simmer it in one pint 
of vinegar, add this to the dye. run the cloth in one 
hour, &c. 

FOR BROWN. 

Take six pounds of fustic, boil overnight, run the 
cloth in the liquor one hour, air, add a quarter of a 
pound ofallum, run fifteen minutes, air, add four ounces 
chymic, run one hour; empty, rince and fill the copper 
with pure water, add half a bushel of butter nut bark, 
boil moderately two or three hours, run the cloth in this 
one hour, air, saden with copperas. 

FOR YELLOW. 

Take a quarter of a pound of aquafortis and as much 
pewter or block tin as the aquafortis will dissolve; fill 
the copper with fair water, add the compound of aqua¬ 
fortis &c. after boiling, then add six ounces of argal 
and half a pound of allum, boil well, run the cloth one 
hour, air, rince and shift the liquor from the copper; fill, 
take five pounds of fustic, boil well, run the cloth in one 
hour, add half a pound of allum, run the cloth fifteen 
minutes and you will have a good yellow. 

FOR DUFF YELLOW. 

Take four pounds of fustic, boil well, slacken the fire, 
add half a pound of madder, run the cloth in one hour, 
air, add half a pound of allum, run the cloth half an 
hour. 

N. B. The yellow dye, after you are done dying, will 
be useful in all colours that have yellow in. 

TO TAKE THE COLOR OUT OF CLOTH. 

Fill the copper with water, add two ounces of oil of 


12 THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 

vitriol half a pound of stone lime, run the cloth in this 
fifteen minutes boiling hot, if this does not destroy the 
colour, air, and add a little more of each and manage 
in this way till the colour is destroyed. 

FOR CRIMSON RED. 

Take ten pounds of niquagua, boil well, fun the cloth 
one hour, air, add half a pound of allum two ounces of 
blue vitriol, two ounces of wine stone, stir well, run the 
cloth one hour, air, dry it and soap it, lay it in the mill, 
jet it run fifteen minutes, rince and it will be a good 
crimson. 

N. B. All cloths should be scoured with soap after 
dying, a colour that will not stand soaping is not worth 
making. 


FOR SNUFF. 

Fill the copper with water, bring it to boil, add one 
pound of copperas, quarter of a pound of allum, half a 
pound of blue stone, stir well,run the cloth one hour, 
air, shift the liquor, fill with clear water, add eight 
pounds of fustic, one pound of camwood, boil well, run 
the cloth two hours, air, add one gallon of strong lye, 
run fifteen minutes handle very quick. 

N. B- Three bushels of black oak bark is equal to 
eight pounds of fustic and will answer the same pur¬ 
pose. 


FOR LONDON SNUFF. 

Fill the copper with clear water, bring it to boil, add 
one pound of copperas, one pound of blue vitriol, stir 
well, run the cloth two hours, air, shift the liquor, fill 
with water; take eight pounds of fustic, boil well, run 
the cloth two hours, air, shift the liquor, fill with water, 
take one bushel of walnut hulls, simmer them over night 
run the cloth in this liquor one hour, add a little cop¬ 
ras, run again, add a little lye, run fifteen minutes. 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


13 


FOR CIYNAMON BROWN. 

Fill the copper with water, add one pound of blue 
vitriol, stir well, run the cloth one hour, shift the liquor, 
fill with water, add five pounds of fustic, one pound of 
niquaagua, half a pound of madder; let it simmer two 
hours, run the cloth one hour, air, add a quart of lye, 
run one hour and you will have a good colour, 

FOR MADDER RED. 

Take one peck of wheat bran, boil it in a small ket- 
tie with eight gallons of water one hour, then fill the 
copper with water, bring it to boil; then add the liquor 
of the bran and three pounds of allum, one pound of ar- 
gal, stir well, run the cloth one hour, air and rince the 
cloth, shift the liquor from the copper, fill with fresh 
water, add eight pounds of madder, let it simmer two 
hours, run the cloth one hour, air, run again, keep the 
dye hot though not boiling; continue in this way till the 
strength is well out of the dve, then shift the liquor 
from the copper, fill with fresh water, add three pound 
of Brazil wood, boil two hours and add half a pound of 
allum, run one hour and this will produce a good red. 

FOR POLISHED RED. 

Take three pounds of nut galls, pulverize them, boil 
them well then slacken the fire, add eight, pounds of 
madder, let it simmer one hour, run the cloth in one 
hour, air, run again, air, add half a pound of allum, run, 
air, add a little pot or pearl ash, run again and you will 
have a good polished red. 

FOR CLARET. 

Take three pounds of fustic chips, boil well, run the 
cloth one hour, air, rince, shift the liquor from the cop¬ 
per, fill with fresh water, add eight pounds of red wood, 
boil well, run the cloth one hour, air, add half a pound 
of allum, run and air till the colour is well out of the 

B 


14 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


dye, then add two ounces of aquafortis with the strength 
killed with pewter or block tin, boil, run a few minutes 
and you will have a good claret. 

FOR CLARET, AFTER COLOURING THE 
CLOTH MADDER RED. 

Take one bushel of walnut hulls, let them simmer 
over night, add a handful of logwood; after the hulls are 
removed out of the kettle, boil the logwood one hour, 
run the cloth and saden with copperas. 


FOR BLACK. 

Take three bushels of white oak bark, boil well, run 
the cloth one hour, air, add one pound of copperas, run 
again, air, shift the liquor from the copper, fill with 
fresh water, add eight pounds of logwood, boil over 
night, run the cloth two hours, air, add a half pound of 
copperas and two ounces of verdigries, stir well, run 
again one hour, add a pound of chimney soot and an 
ounce of beef gall, run again and it will be a durable 
black. 


FOR FLESH COLOUR. 

Take half a bushel of walnut hulls, boil well, run the 
cloth in one hour, air, add four ounces of argal, boil 
ten minutes, stir well, run the cloth in a few minutes; 
it is best coloured in the flannel. 


FOR LONDON BROWN. 

Take six pounds of camwood, boil well, run the cloth 
in an hour, air, run again and air, add half a pound of 
blue vitriol, run again, air, rince, empty and fill the cop¬ 
per with clean water add three bushels of walnut hulls, 
simmer them over night, run the cloth in three hours 
with frequent airing, add four ounces of argal, boil a 
few minutes, run the cloth in one hour, air, add one 
pound of copperas, run again & if the colour looses the 





THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 


15 


red shade rince, shift the liquor from the kettle, fill with 
water, add four pounds of camwood, boil well, run the 
cloth one hour, and if not dark enough saden with cop¬ 
peras. This is a lasting colour. 

FOR LONDON BROWN. 

Take six pounds of niaquaagua, put it into two gallons 
of brandy set near the fire over night with frequent slir- 
ing, fill the copper with water, add one pound of fustic 
and the the brandy and chips, boil well, run the cloth 
two hours, air, add half a pound of blue vitriol, stir 
well, run the cloth one hour, air, add half a pound of 
blue vitriol, stir well, run the cloth one hour, air, rince, 
shift the liquor from the copper, fill with fresh water, 
add one pound of red wood, quarter of a pound of log¬ 
wood and half a pound of madder, simmer them one 
hour, run the cloth one hour, air, add one pound of cop¬ 
peras, four ounces of verdigris pulverized, run the 
cloth half an hour, and the colour is finished. 

FOR LONDON SMOKE, 

Fill the copper with water, bring it to boil, add one 
pound of copperas and half a pound of blue vitriol, stir 
well, run the cloth one hour, air, rince, shift the liquor 
from the copper, fill with water, add ten pound of fus¬ 
tic, two pound of camwood, boil well, run the cloth two 
hours, air, add two ounces of copperas, run again, air, 
rince, shift the liquor from the copper, fill, add two 
bushels of walnut hulls, one pound of logwood, simmer 
them over night, run the cloth again, air, add one pound 
of copperas and the colour is done. 

FOR LIGHT DRAB. 

Take an arm full of black oak bark and four ouncra 
of argal, boil well, run the cloth ten minutes, air, add 
a handful of copperas, run again and the colour is done. 


16 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


FOR LONDON BROWN. 

Take four pounds of camwood, put it in a kettle, add 
two gallons of brandy, place it near the fire in the even¬ 
ing; at the same time fill the copper with water, add 
three bushels of butternut bark; keep the dye hot though 
not boiling; next morning take the bark out of the cop¬ 
per, add the camwood liquor, keep up a moderate fire, 
run the cloth two hours, air, add one pound of coppe¬ 
ras, four ounces of argal, stir well, run again, air, add 
one gallon of sig, run again, foe. 

FOR ORANGE COLOUR. 

Take three~pounds of camwood, two pounds fustic, 
boil well, run the cloth one hour, air, add half a pound 
of blue vitriol, run again, &c. 

FOR LEAD COLOUR. 

Take half a pound of gall nuts, pulverize them, boil 
well run the cloth one hour, air, add half a pound of cop¬ 
peras, run again, foe. 

FOR DRAB IN TIIE FLANNEL. 

Take half a pound of argal and half a pound of fustic, 
boil well, run the cloth half an hour, air, add four oun¬ 
ces of copperas, run again. 


Drab should always be coloured in the flannel after 
being well clensed of grease, dirt, foe. and all dark col¬ 
ours should be coloured drab in the flannel (except blue 
and green) the drab dye lays the ground of a colour and 
thus binds the colour to the cloth. 



THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 


17 


RECEIPTS FOR COLOURING COTTON ANI) 
LINEN. 

la the following receipts ten yards is the quantity cal¬ 
culated, though any quantity may be coloured adding 
or diminishing as the case or cases may require. 

BLUE, FOR COTTON OR LINEN, HOT. 

Fill the copper with water, bring it to boil, add one 
pound of blue vitriol, stir well, run the cloth one hour, 
air, add four pound oflogwood, boil well, run the cloth 
one hour, add two ounces of pearl ash, run again, &c. 

FOR GREEN, HOT. 

Take five pounds of logwood and four of fustic boil 
well, run the goods one hour, air, add one pound of blue 
vitriol, half a pound of allum, stir well, run again, air, 
add half a pound of pearl ash, run again. 

FOR GREEN, COLD. 

Take eight pounds of niaquaagua chips and one pound 
of fustic chips, boil well, then dip it oft" into a tub; fill 
the copper with water, boil, run the cloth one hour, air, 
add half a pound of pearl ash, run a few minutes & then 
dip it in the tub of dye and back in the water, continue 
in this way till the colour suits. 

FOR BROWN, HOT. 

Take butter nut, sassafras, alder and hemlock barks, 
one bushel of each, boil well, run the cloth one hour, 
then add four gallons of lye, half a pound of pearl ash, 
run again, &,<•-. and handle in this way till the colour 
suits you. 


FOR PURPLE, COLD. 

Take three pounds of logwood, boil well, dip the dye 

.2 



IB 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


off into a tub, fill the copper with water, add one pound 
of allum, run the cloth in the hot dye, then in the tub of 
cold dye, then add half a pound of pearl ash in the hot 
liquor, dip again and manage in this way till the colour 
is done. 


FOR BROWN, COLD. 

Take one bushel of maple bark, boil well, add one 
pound of copperas, shift the liquor into a tub, fill the 
copper with water, bring it to boil, add half a pound of 
pearl ash, run the cloth in the pearl ash water then in 
the tub of dye several times, lay it in the sun several 
times during the process and it will be a durable brown. 

FOR DOVE COLOUR, COLD. 

(The goods must first be coloured a lead colour)— 
Then take two pound of nut galls, pulverize them, boil 
well in water, add two pounds of copperas, shift the li¬ 
quor into a tub; fill the copper with water, boil, add a 
pound of pearl ash, (it is best before you prepare the 
pearl ash water to boil eight pounds of sumac which is 
cut in the latter part of the summer, and four pounds of 
logwood, boil well and put into the tub) then run the 
cloth into the pearl ash water one hour very hot and 
then tnto the tub ofdye and manage in this way, and let 
it have the sun at intervals. 

FOR BLACK, HOT. 

Take eight pounds of logwood and four pounds of 
fustic, boil well, run the cloth two hours and add one 
pound of blue vitriol, run again, air add two pounds of 
copperas, two gallons of sig, run again &c. if it is at¬ 
tended with a rusty brownish add four ounces of pearl 
ash. 

BLACK, COLD. 

Take two pounds of nut galls, eight pounds of log- 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE* 


19 


wood, four pounds sumac, boil them well, shift the li¬ 
quor into a tub, rince and fill the copper, bring it to 
boil, add one pound of pearl ash, run in this one hour 
hot, then air, lay it into the tub, handle and ring it and 
keep it in the dye tv\ o hours with frequent stiring, then 
air, sun it and run it in the pearl ash water, and lay it in 
the dye tub again and manage in this way till your col¬ 
our suits you. 


RED, COLD. 

Take ten pounds of niaquaagua, boil them well, add 
half a pound of allum, shift the liquor into a tub, fill the 
copper with water, boil, add one pound of pearl ash, run 
the cloth one hour then lay it in the dye tub, ring and 
stir it about two hours. 

BLUE COLD. 

Fill a tub with water, take fifteen pounds* of stone 
lime, slack it, put it in the water, stir well then add 
eight pounds of copperas dissolved with hot water, stir 
well, then add eight pounds of indigo made fine, stir 
well, let it stand three days—it should be well stirred 
every two hours, lay sticks accross the top of the tub 
and hang the yarn on them loose and move it around e- 
very fifteen minutes; six hours is sufficient for the first 
colouring, rince and dry it in the shade; as the dye is re¬ 
duced, longer lime is required in colouring. 

When the dye is reduced recruit the same way as be¬ 
fore in setting only when there is a great deal of seda- 
ment in the bottom, the dye should be diped off and 
throw away the sedament and shift the dye back, if tho 
tub is not full enough fill it and add dye stuff in propor¬ 
tion—rain water is required in this dye; it must not bo 
worked at too soon after recruiting; but judgment must 
be used in this dye. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

Cotton and linen dyes are the Lest cold in general; 


20 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE 


for cotton &.c. are of so cold a nature that in hot dyes 
they are apt to spot, and the steam of the dyes has a bad 
effect on goods of this kind. In the preceding receipts 
I have made ten yards the general quantity though any 
quantity may be coloured in proportion; attention should 
"be paid to follow tiie receipts exactly and you will find 
them to answer the purpose required. 

In receipts for woolen twenty yards is the general 
rule and they must be dyed hot. 

TO SET A BLUE VAT OF 160 GALLONS. 

Take ten pounds of pot ash, dissolve it in ten gallons 
of water, twelve of indigo (or if you have tvoad and three 
pound of indigo)and add ten pounds of woad, twelve 
pounds of madder and sixteen quarts of wheat bran and 
halfa pound of borax. 

The setting.—To dense the water take twelve bush¬ 
els of ashes, half a bushel of stone lime, plaee it in a 
hopperlub, let all the water run through it; when the 
water'is thus prepared place the water (that has run 
through the ashes) into the boiler, then add the madder 
the bran and half the potash lye, heat the copper with 
constant stiring, when nearly boiling turn it into the 
vat, keep the vat covered, then fill the copper as before, 
add the indigo and the remaining potash lye then the 
woad (if you have any) heat moderately with constant 
stirring till nearly boiling, empty this into the vat (if the 
vat is not full enough) heal more water and fill it to 
within twenty inches of the top, stir well, cover close, 
let it stand three hours, then add the borax, stir well, 
and let it stand ten hours and, if it docs not come to 
work prepare more lime water as before, about four gal¬ 
lons with eight quarts of stone lime, stir well and add 
one gallon of the lime water every three hours till it isall 
used; if it does not come to work take four quarts of 
lime put it in four gallons of malt beer, which is fit to 
drink add one gallon of this and stir well every three 
hours, if it does not work in forty-eight hours you may 
add some more beer that is fomented with a little pear 
ash. 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


21 


When the dye is worked ready for colouring it will 
have a brown scum on the top, and place a patren in the 
dye one hour it will look of a deep grass green when 
first taken out, but when exposed to the air it will 
change to a deep blue. 

The cloth or wool must be run in hot water with a 
itlle pearlash in before it is put in the vat, and the scum 
must be taken off of the vat and placed into another tub 
and covered close, and when the cloth comes out, the 
scum must be placed into the vat again, the cloth must 
not remain in the dye more than three hours, the dye 
must be kept moderately warm and when reduced it 
may be recruited as before in like proportion. 

N. B. If the dye be in good order you may make a 
colouring in half an hour, and thus make several colour¬ 
ings without recruiting the dye, only take care not to put 
in so much the second time as at first and take less to a 
colouring every time and keep it in longer as the dyo 
grows weaker, and run it in hot pearlash water; before 
dipping take care not to reduce the dye too low. 

THE COLD VAT WITH URINE. 

Take four pounds of indigo, dissolve it in four quarts 
of vinegar, add half a pound of madder, stir it well, if 
the indigo does not dissolve add a little more urine, 
place it on the embers, place sixty three gallons of urine 
into a vessel, add the indigo&c. stir well morning and 
evening for eight days, or until the vat appears green at 
the surface whenjstired, or a brown scum appears, then 
she is fit for work. This kind of vat is extremely con¬ 
venient, for when once set to work it may be worked un¬ 
til entirely reduced, that is, until the indigo gives all 
its colour. Thus she may be worked at any time, 
whereas the other must be prepared the day before. 

This vat may be made more or less considerably, by 
adding or diminishing its ingredients, so that to each 
pound of indigo add one quart of vinegar, two ounces of 
madder, and eighteen gallons of urine. This vat 
«omes sooner to work in summer than in winter, and 



22 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


may be brought sooner to work by warming some of the 
liquor and placing it back again into the vat. This pro¬ 
cess is so simple, that it is almost impossible to fail. 

When the indigo is quite spent and gives no more col¬ 
our, she may be charged again by grinding indigo and 
dissolving it in vinegar, and pouring the whole into 
the vat and stiring her night and morning she will be 
as good as before: however she must be charged this 
wav not more than four or five times; for the sediments 
will dull the liquor, and in consequence render the col¬ 
our less bright, though you may dip the dye off and 
wash the vat and place the dye back again and recruit 
as before. 


HOT VAT WITH URINE. 

Take four pounds oflndigo, put it in four gallons of 
urine, place it near the fire,let it stand twenty four hours, 
then stir it well, run it through a piece of bolting cloth 
into a tub and the indigo that remains in the strainer 
put back and more urine placed on it as before, and 
poured into the tub until the indigo is all dissolved and 
passed through the strainer, then fill the boiler with 
urine, heat it nearly boiling hot skim it and let it stand 
and skim it as long as there is any scurn on it, then turn 
it into the vat and fill the boiler, and manage in this 
way till the vat be nearly full, then add the indigo stir it 
up in the vat and mix it all together, then take one poun d 
argal, one pound of allum, pulverixe them stir it into 
one quart of urine, add this the vat and stir well, 
cover close, let it stand five hours, or until the dye 
turns of a green colour, and when a sample is applied 
to it, it will look green when first taken out. 

After making a small colouring in this, place it back 
again into the boiler, heat it nearly to boiling, skim it, 
turn it into the vat at the same time have one pound of 
indigo, one pound of argal, one pound of allum, prepar¬ 
ed as before, add it to the vat, stir well, then add one 
pound of madder, stir well and let sand over night, and 
the next day she will be fit for work, and you may col- 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


23 


•our any kind of wollen goods in this dye, when it first 
comes out it will look green, and will change to blue in 
a few minutes. 

During this process, the dye vat must be kept cover¬ 
ed close that it may retain the heat, for the hoter she 
is the better she will dye. This vat may be recruited 
as often as you please by reheating, and adding indigo, 
allum, argal and madder as before described, and not 
work it when cool, for it will not make a lasting colour 
if too cold. In this dye great care should be taken to 
let the goods take the air evenly, when taken out of the 
dye, to change the green to blue, or they will not be 
evenly in the goods; and it should also be kept close 
while in the dye, and be stired about often that the dye 
may more easily penetrate through the goods. 

BLUE YAT WITH WOAD. 

A boiler is placed near the vat and filled with water; 
a handful of hay add to the water, a fire lighted about 
three in the morning, add eight pounds of madder sim¬ 
mer it an hour. It must then be conveyed into the vat 
in which there has been previously, put a peck of 
wheat bran, and while the hot water is thus riming in, 
there must be sixteen pound of woad placed into the 
vat so the hot water may run on it, after the water is all 
in the vat, cover it close, let it stand four hours, then 
stir well and let a little air in, and add two pound of 
lime (it is better to place the lime in a vessel and pour 
water over it and then draine the water off*and leave the 
sedaments in the bottom, stir well, and cover close, and 
let it stand four hours; then stir again and cover, but 
leave a small space to admit a little air, let it stand 
three hours, then if she is not come to work, stir a- 
gain, cover up and let her stand one hour and a half, 
and so soon as she comes to work (that is when she 
casts up blue, and appears to foment) she must be serv¬ 
ed with indigo thus prepared, take four pound of indigo, 
pulverixe it, fill the boiler with water, add the indigo 
and make it hot, though not boiling, turn it into the vat. 


24 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE*. 


cover it close, let it stand one hour, then serve her 
with lime water, made with two pound of lime and one 
gallon of water, pour the water into the vat while worm, 
cover close three hours, then stir and place a pattren 
in, let it remain one hour, then take it out to judge 
whether she be fit to work; if she is, the pattern will 
corne out green, and when exposed to the sun it will 
turn blue. If the green he deep, she must be served 
with lime and covered close for three hours, then put 
another pattern in and when taken out it appears green, 
and when exposed to the sun changes to a good deep 
blue, then the goods may be applied to the dye. Keep 
ths stuff loose and stir it about well and let it remain 
in the vat one hour, then take it out, handle it very 
quick, when puting in or taking out, or it will be cloud¬ 
ed. Follow these directions, and if materials be good, 
you are certain to have a good colour. 

VVOAD is a plant cultivated in Holland and France, 
and might be in America, to the great advantage of 
the husbandman. It is made up m bails, generally 
weighing from one to two hundred pounds. It resem¬ 
bles little clods of dried earth interwoven with fibris of 
plants. It is gathered at a proper season, and laid up 
to rot and then made up into little balls to dry. Sever¬ 
al circumstances are to be observed in this preparation 
the best comes from France, though it may be made in 
America equally as good as in France, and many other 
drugs might be prepared in America which are not. 


THE CULTIVATION OF MADDER. 

Madder is a root, it may be cultivated in America to 
a great advantage if properly attended to. Get the 
small.roots of madder, set them in the ground about one 
foot apart and hoe them to keep the weeds down, and 
in the fall when the frost kills the tops, lay straw over 
the ground where it grows, to keep the roots warm, and 
in the spring take off the straw, and keep the weeds out 
of it, though not disturb the ground to any depth, or it 



THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


25 


would injure the root; it is three seasons coming to pet: 
fection. In October the third fall after planted the 
roots may be taken up with a spade and washed clean» 
and laid thin in the shade to dry, when dried it is ground 
or mashed up fine fit for use. 

N. B. When digtng the small roots, may be buried in 
the ground for planting the next spring, and cover the 
place where you dig the madder out of, for there will be 
small roots remaining in the ground that will grow the 
next spring. 

Thus madder is easy cultivated and one of the best 
drugs for the manufacturer. With madder and indigo 
\ we may colour our goods, with the assistance of a very 
\ few other drugs which may all be cultivated in the 
I United States and thus save a great sum of money 
J which is paid yearly for dye-stuffs. 

A FEW REMARKS ON DYERS, DRUGS. 

INDIGO.—There are various qualities, and many 
dyers fail in their judgment of the indigo; the best is 
imported from Spanish America, it is generally soft and 
will swim when put into water on the surface of the wa¬ 
ter, and is called floating, this is the best kind of indigo 
for blues;—French indigo is much harder and in lumps; 
if it is good, when broken it will look of a purple colour, 
this will make a fine blue, though the indigo cultivated 
in North America will answer for all colours where in¬ 
digo is used. It is in lumps about as large as the French 
Indigo, and the quality may be ascertained by breaking 
it and scraping with the back of a knife, if it is good it 
will appear of a purple colour, or when wet and rubed 
on the finger nail the colour will stick to the nail, then 
it may be pronounced good; but if it appear of a mouldy 
nature and when broken makes a red appearance and 
full of white specks, then it is fit for no purpose. 

Indigo might be cultivated in the United States in 
great abundance, it is very profitable to the husband¬ 
man, warm climates suits it the best; it is cultivated 
in South Carolina and Georgia. 

C 


26 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 


COCHINEAL. 


This is an insect cultivated in South America, it is a 
strong and good dye drug, and will return a handsome 
profit to the dyer when used in scarlets, pinks and crim¬ 
sons, that which is good will appear plump and as though 
a light sprinkling of flour had been thrown upon it, if 
you keep it dry in a glass bottle, stop tight, it will retain 
its strength for many years; some cochineal is damaged, 
this will look of a dead mouldy nature and is fit for no 
use m colouring. 

OF CAMWOOD. 

Camwood is with propriety called one of the best ot 
dye woods, its colour is permanent and will resist the 
influence of the air; it is not many years since the use 
ofit was first known in the United States; it is in logs 
from eight to ten inches in diametre; it splits freely and 
when good is heavy. On opening at the first appearance 
it is an orange colour, but when exposed to the air it 
turns reddish, its smell is pungent, it is much more con¬ 
venient to the dyer to have it ground, or you must chip 
it very fine it being a very close wood, it will require 
much boiling that which is ground, ifgood, will appear 
of a yellowish red, if it looks dark and mouldy it has 
been bleeched and will not produce a good colour. 



OF RED WOOD. 

Redwood is useful in many dyes, whether used alone 
or with other woods; it is useful in browns where red is 
required; it is good for a pink, claret, &c. it is best to use 
nut galls with it, it comes in small sticks, if good looks 
bright with a yellowish red, smells agreeable, chips free¬ 
ly, the colour obtained from this wood is not permanent 


if obtained hastily; the liquor ought to be sour then the 
colour will be lasting. That which has been damaged 


by the sea water or otherwise will afford a dull red chip 
and will not make a good colour. 


the clothiers guide. 


27 


NLCAQUAAGUA WOOD. 

This wood is in sticks of various sizes, these sticks 
have a number of concaves in them, which have the ap¬ 
pearance of art; this wood splits freely and is of a red- 
lsh orange colour; it gives a bright colour and is used 
much the same as red wood, but is preferable in browns, 
&c. 


FUSTIC. 

Fustic is a species of mulberry tree grows in Jamaica 
and Brazil, it is of a deep sulpher yellow colour which 
it readily gives out both to water and spirits; the colour 
of this wood is very durable, it is good in snuffs, orange, 
green, &c. 

The fustel or fustit of the French, is a wood very dif¬ 
ferent from our fustic; it gives a fine orange colour to 
woolen but the colour is extremely perishable in the air. 
It grows wild in Italy and France, and is cultivated in 
gardens for the beauty of its flowers. 

LOGWOOD. 

Logwood is the wood of a low prickly tree which 
grows plenty about Campeachy or the bay of Honduras, 
and has of late been introduced into some of the British 
plantations, particularly Jamaica. It is the native of 
low marshy places; the wood comes over in large logs, 
cleared from the bark, it is very compact, heavy and of 
a red colour. 

Logwood gives out its colour both to water and spi¬ 
rits, but not readily to either without boiling; it requires 
to be chipedfine or ground, and dampen it with water 
or spirits two weeks before it is to be used, and it will 
give more colour than it otherwise would. 

COPPERAS. 

Copperas is an extract of Iron corroded with acid, or 
for a substitute for copperas, take the filings of iron put 



28 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


it in vinegar, let it stand one month and you will have 
a much better darkening substance; the best copperas 
is the brown or that which appears to be mouldy, deep 
green copperas will make the brightest blue but it is not 
so strong as the other, and will not make so good a 
black, that of a pale green colour is worth but little. 
Copperas ought to be kept in a cellar where it is not very 
damp nor open that the acid may evaporate. 

NUT GALLS. 

Nut galls are of great use in colouring black. Galls 
are the basis preparatory in the grounds of all cotton 
dyeing except blue; the estnngency of the galls become 
affixed on the body of the cotton, and the colouring sub¬ 
stance immediately adheres to it. The galls come from 
Aleppo and Smyrna, the Aleppo galls are generally the 
best—they come highly charged and are not so much 
used as they ought to be in dying; some barks may be 
substituted in their stead. The acorns of the whiteoak 
may be substituted in their stead, and it is wished that 
those who have oak groves would gather and try them 
that they might come into use. 

SUMAC. 

Sumac is a crooked shrub with spreading branches of 
different heights, and grows plentifully in many parts of 
the country; it is used in three different ways. When 
the wood is used only the bark and sap is all taken off, 
as there is a gluttenous balsom in the sap which will ad¬ 
here to the cloth and cause a bad effect. Another meth¬ 
od is to cut the branches and buds or berries of the last 
season, gather make or cure them as you would hay, 
without wet, and put them up for use. The third me¬ 
thod is the same cutting and curing, then it is convey¬ 
ed to the Sumac Factory where it is manufactured and 
packed in casks; this is the best for common use; it ne¬ 
ver ought to be used green on account of its gum, 
which evaporates or disappears in the curing and man- 



THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 89 

ufacturing. The wood is useful in drabs, and the man¬ 
ufactured, in blacks, browns, &c, 

OF BARKS IN GENERAL. 

Butler nut or white walnut bark, is the best colouring 
substance in North America; It will give a variety of 
shades, and if used right its colour is durable. It is 
good in many browns but not in black. It is best to use 
it when green, through autumn and winter seasons, the 
wood ought to be cut in the last of November, for the 
winter use and housed and the bark shaved off as you 
want to use it, in using, it should be cut fine and put into 
the boiler the day before you begin your colour, and 
keep a fire to the boiler though it should not boil. Im¬ 
merse the goods when it is as hot as you can bear your 
hand in and not suffer it to get any hotter and the col¬ 
our will be durable; but if it boils the colour will not be 
so bright, the shade will be different and not so lasting, 
in the spring when the bark will slip peel the bark from 
the tree for the summer use and house it immediately 
after peeling. Never cure it in the sun. It is good 
in smokes, olives, and snuff colours, &c. 

BLACK OAK BARK, 

Is an excellent colouring drug; it is good in smoke, 
olive, snuff, drab, green and black, whether used green 
or dry the colour is permanent and clear. It may be 
boiled and used in the same way as fustic. If ground 
and dry like for tanning, twelve pound is equal to eight 
pound of fustic. 

BLACK WALNUT HULLS, 

Are very good in smoke and brown if gathered in the 
month of October before the frost injures them—the 
colour is permanent—the bark is somewhat different 
from the hulls, though will answer nearly the same pur¬ 
pose. 

c2 




30 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 


WHITE OAK BARK, 

May be used in any colour that galls are used in, and 
in the same way though the colour is not so lasting as 
galls, the acorns are better than the bark if gathered in 
autumn and laid up to dry. 

ALDER BARK, 

Is good in black, snuff and drab; it may be used green 
or dry, it must be boiled. As the alder is generally of 
a small growth it is most convenient to cut the branches 
wood and all together; the wood has some colouring 
matter—if the sticks are large split them in small pieces. 

YELLOW BIRCH, WHITE ASH & SASSAFRAS, 

These are good in light snuff, and drab—they may be 
used green or dry, boiled or simmered as you please. 

CHESNUT, MAPLE & WHITE BIRCH BARK, 

These are good in drabs, whether green or dry, these 
need boiling to extract their strength, they are also good 
in black. 

THE SMART WEED, 

Is very good in black, smoke, snuff and green—it 
should be cut when in bloom and cured like hay, and 
used in the same way as fustic; smart weed grows in 
rich wet places has a round stem full of joints, long 
smooth leaf of a green colour. 

TO PRESERVE DYE STUFFS FROM INJURY. 

Strict attention should be paid to this branch of busi¬ 
ness, as filth and dirt are injurious to most all dye stuffs; 
wood in the stick should be kept in a dry sellar, raised 
from the ground, yellow and red woods when ground 
should be kept in casks covered. 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 31 

LOG WOOD & CAM WOOD. 

Should be kept (when chipped or ground) in casks 
open to the air, as the air improves them. Copperas 
should be kept in a dry sellar covered, so must indigo, 
argal and vvoad as the air is injurious to these. 

THE CULTIVATION OF TEASLES. 

These are important in dressing fine cloth—no cloths 
can be well napped without them, they are fine and soft 
and not so injurious to the body of the cloths as jacks, 
and they yield abundantly both burs and seeds; it takes 
them two years to come to perfection; they should be 
sowed in warm sandy ground in the month of March. 
When the leaves attain to the size of a cent they should 
be taken up and planted about a foot apart similar to 
cabbage ; keep the weeds clean from them—the first 
season they will attain to a shrubby plant similar to the 
mullen, they may stand exposed to the winter without 
injury, the second season they will come to perfection; 
they branch out abundantly and one plant will produce 
a number of burs, which should be cut so soon as they 
begin to change their colour from the green to a yellow. 
The stem to each bur should be cut six inches; they 
should not be exposed to the sun or rain after cut but put 
up in the air in a dry place. 

SORTING OF WOOL. 

There should be great attention paid to this branch 
of manufacturing; there are various qualities of sheep, 
such as Saxon, Merino, full blood, half, common or 
coarse wooled, &<c. the former is the best; the wool 
when taken off of the sheep should be divided into four 
parts, that which grows on the neck and shoulders of the 
sheep is the finest, on the back and part of the sides, the 
second in quality; on the belly and rump the third, and 
on the legs the fourth, the second pick of full blood is 
equal to the half blood; the wool of the legs is fit for no 
use only blanketing, &c. The sorter of wool should- 



32 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


be a man ofjudgment, as one pound of coarse wool will 
spoil ten pounds of fine wool. The merino makes the 
second quality of cloth and is not so easy worked as 
Saxon. 

OF SCOURING OR WASHING WOOL. 

This is also an important branch in the manufacture. 
It should be well clensed of dirt, gum, &c. to accom¬ 
plish this take soft soap, sig and rain water, equal parts 
of each, warm them together to a moderate warmth, 
place them in a tub, add one ounce of pe arl ash to every 
two gallons of liquor, stir it well; when about blood 
warm place as much wool in as the liquor will conve¬ 
niently cover, stir and wring it about well and let it re¬ 
main in two hours, then wring and squeeze the liquor 
well out of the wool into the tub (this same liquor, with 
the addition of a little more soap and pearl ash, will con¬ 
tinue good for eight or ten washings) place the wool in¬ 
to a basket and rince it well in clear running water till 
the soap, grease, &c. is clean out of it, whidi you may 
ascertain easily by the feeling of the wool. When there 
is any soap in it, it will feel slippery; and another sign of 
it being clean is that when you squeeze it out of the 
water, the water which runs from it will look clear and 
clean, though if the wool be not clean the water which 
runs from’it will appear milky and thick, then it must 
be washed in the clear water so long as there is any ap¬ 
pearance of soap in it; then spread it thin in a clean 
place to dry in the sun, so soon as it is dry it should be 
taken in, as the sun has a tendency to make it harsh and 
rough. 


OF MANUFACTURING CLOTH. 

After the wool is thus prepared as before described, 
take two pounds of sweet or sperm oil to seventeen 
pounds of wool, mix it well through the wool, at the 
same time pick out all hard substances, such as sticks, 
burs, &c. and clip off the dead ends of the wool which 
are hard, for they are injurious to the carding. Card 



THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


33 


this wool into rolls; your cards must be in quality to suit 
the wool, spin and weave it. Slathe it to suit the quali¬ 
ty of the yarn, there should be a list wove to it of strong 
coarse yarn, about two inches broad which is of no ser¬ 
vice, only to the mill man, dyer and finisher. Cloth can¬ 
not be well milled without a list; it should be wove 
square, that is as much filling as warp; after weaving, if 
it is not put into the mill it should be laid in some safe 
place, and stir it about once in a week to give it air, or 
it is apt to mildew. 

OF MILLING CLOTH, 

There are various forms of Mills intended for the pur¬ 
pose of fulling cloth. The Falling hammer is the best 
for making good firm cloth. Take soft soap, sig and 
rain water, equal quantities, boil them together, set it 
by to cool, when blood warm sprinkle it on the cloth e- 
venly, lay it into the mill, start the mill on it, let it run 
forty minutes, stop the mill, take up the cloth, stretch 
and over-hale it well; if the cloth feels sticky sprinkle 
more soap and chamberley on it, place it in the mill and 
let it run forty minutes longer and over-hale as before; 
so soon as the soap is well through the cloth, which you 
know by it feeling slippery and smoothe, then it should 
be scoured or rinsed out clean, and if it is intended for 
any other colour than blue or green it should be colour¬ 
ed drab and well naped on the side opposite to the 
mark, and lay the nap towards the end which has the 
mark on (it should be naped in the flannel be for what 
colour it may) dry it and place it in the mill after being 
soaped, and manage in this way, over-hale and stretch 
every hour until it attains the thickness required; then 
rince the soap out, and it will be ready for colouring or 
finishing if it is intended to be drab. 

OF DRESSiNG CLOTH. 

After it has been thus prepared, you may colour as it 
is required and nap it again on the same side and 
the same way as before. Teasles are the beat 


34 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


to nap with, though jacks 'will answer the pur¬ 
pose. You should not bear hard on the cloth especial¬ 
ly if vou use jacks as it would injure the body of the 
cloth,'though bear light and regular on the cloth and 
raise a good nap on, it, as the beauty of the goods de¬ 
pends on being well naped. For this reason Teasels 
are the best, for they are soft and will give so you may 
nap it well without injury. Then tenter and let it 
dry, shear it and whip the dust out and brush it well 
on the face side, rub the brush the same way the grain 
lies. Place it in the papers, make the plates hot so they 
will hiss when you spit on them, then place three plates 
on the bed of the press and lay one fold of cloth on and 
three more plates on the cloth, and so on till the cloth 
is all in, screw it down moderately, let it stand till the 
cloth is warm,, then screw it tight or to suit yourself, 
coarse cloth should be pressed hard, it settles the bo¬ 
dy together; fine cloth should not be pressed so hard. 
Some workmen slight their work, and then endeavour 
to hide it by the press, this is a bad plan, for so soon as 
the cloth is wore a while it will show the fraud. 

TO KNOW WHEN CLOTH HAS BEEN WELL 
MILLED, FINISHED & DYED. 

When cloth has been well milled and finished in a 
proper manner, it will be soft and firm; being shorn e- 
ven it will present to you a thick short nap which lies 
smooth in one regular direction, by drawing the hand 
the way the nap inclines it will feel sleek and smooth, 
move the hand to the reverse it will feel rough and 
prickley; if the cloth will bear this inspection you may 
conclude the workman has done his duty. The work¬ 
manship on cloth that is designed for handsome dress¬ 
ing may be discovered by the eye; if it is pressed stiff 
like buckrarn, if the nap be irregular, and the face of 
the cloth be rough the workman has not done his duty, 
but endeavoured to hide his failure by the press. The 
press which on fine cloth is of no importance. Cloth 
should be so dressed as to wear as neat without as with 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


35 


pressing, the only reason that thick cloths are pressed, 
is to settle the bodies of them and make the threds u- 
niform and firm; however if cloths have not been well 
manufactured before it is delivered to the mill man, it 
will be out of the power of the finisher to make it look 
neat. 

Did men in this country thus inspect their cloths un¬ 
faithful and ignorant workmen would not be employed, 
while the well informed and faithful workman would be 
enabled to do business upon a more extensive scale, 
than has yet been attempted in America. 

A FEW RExMARKS ON COLOURING. 

To prepare feathers to receive green or yellow, for one 
ounce of feathers take one quart of water, add to it one 
gill of sour wheat bran water, one ounce cream of tar¬ 
tar, and half an ounce of allum, simmer this together; 
wash and rince the feathers and put them in, let them 
stand twelve hours keeping the liquor hot. 

N. D. White only will receive the above colours. 

TO COLOUR FEATHERS, FIR, &c. RED. 

Take half an ounce of cochineal made fine, mix it with 
an ounce and a half of cream of tartar to one quart of 
water, when simmering hot, add a tea spoonful of co¬ 
chineal, tartar, &c put the feathers in, let them re. 
main in a quarter of an hour, take them out, add ano¬ 
ther tea spoonful, place them in again and so on until 
the compound is exhausted, in all colouring the dye 
must not be crowded, and soft water must be used. Af¬ 
ter the colouring matter is all exhausted let them re¬ 
main in the dye one hour. 

TO DYE BRISSELS RED. 

Take one ounce of Brazil wood, half an ounce of ar- 
gal one ounce of vermillion, and one pint of vinegar, boil 
them well together, put the Brissels in when hot and let 
them remain until cold. 



36 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


TO COLOUR FEATHERS, FUR, HAIR, &r. 
BLUE. 

Have your water boiling, add a table spoonful of chy- 
mic after the goods are washed and rinsed place them 
in the dye, let them remain half an hour, take them out, 
add another spoonful ofthe chymic and place tj?e goods 
in and manage in this way till the colour suits you. 

TO COLOUR FEATHERS, FUR, &c. YELLOW 
OR GREEN. 

Take two pounds of fustic boil it in two gallons of 
water, keep up the quantity of water by adding when 
required. When the dye is well out of the tustic, take 
it out, add one ounce of circuma root bark, one ounce 
of allum, boil the two gallons to two quarts, place 
the feathers, in the dye, let them lay one hour to make 
them green, add one table spoonful of chymic, let them 
lay fifteen minutes, take them out and rince them. 

TO COLOUR FEATHERS BLACK. 

For three ounces of feathers take one quart of water, 
to which add one table spoonful of aquafortis when hot, 
place the feathers in the liquor, let them lay twelve 
hours, take two pounds of logwood, one pound of su¬ 
mac, boil them four hours, take out the logwood sumac, 
doc. add two ounces of nut galls powdered fine, boil the 
water down to three quarts, then place the feathers in 
let them remain twelve hours, then add one pint of sig 
with three onces of copperas and one ounce of verdigris 
which has been simmered over the fire, let them remain 
in the dye twelve hours more then they must be wash¬ 
ed clean. 

The method of 'preparing woolen goods for blue , and an 
explanation of the dye stuff; how prepared and its ef¬ 
fect. 

When the vat is once come to work the dying of wool- 



THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


37 


en stuffs (or wool) is easy, wet them in warm water wiih 
pearl ash, as is directed m the several receipts for blue, 
&c. wring and dip them in the vat and out again, and 
let them have air, and keep them in the vat more or less 
time as the shade is required in deepness, or if a light 
shade is required keep the goods in a shorter time; or if 
you have a dye that has been somewhat, reduced it is 
the best for light shades. In all cases when you take 
the goods out of the vat you should wripg them over the 
vat so the dye may be saved, and expose the goods a 
little to the air which will take off' the green shade in a 
minute or two. for let what vat there may be used the 
goods will appear of a green colour at the coming out, 
and only takes the blue colour in proportion as the air 
acts on it; it is therefore necessary to let it take theair 
as evenly as possible, otherwise the goods would bo 
spotted. The green should be all off'before it is return¬ 
ed into the vat, as then you will be better able to judge 
of its colour, and it will receive the dye the better, and 
by this you may judge if your dye has lime enough, &c. 

It is an ancient custom among dyers to reckon thir¬ 
teen shades of blue from the deepest to the lightest. 
Although their denominations he some what arbritary, 
and it is impossible to fix the exact passage from one to 
the other. 1 shall notwithstanding give the names, they 
are as follows, begining with the lightest: milk blue, 
pearl-blue, pale blue, flat blue, midling-blue, skv-blue, 
green-blue, Turkish blue, watchet-blue, garter blue, 
Mazareen-blue deep blue, and navy-blue. 

These distinctions are not equally received by all 
dyers, nor in all provinces, but the most part are known 
and it is the only method that can be taken to give an 
idea of the same colour whose only difference is in be¬ 
ing more or less deep. 

It is easy to make deep blues, to effect this, air, &, re¬ 
turn the goods several times into the vat; but it is not 
so in light blues, for when the vat is in good order for 
colouring the goods should be left in a very short time 
or it will take more shade than the one reqired. It of¬ 
ten happens that when there is more wool or goods to 
D 


38 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


be coloured than can be diped at once, that which goe* 
in first will be deeper than the other. There are some 
dyers who to obviate this inconveniency in making very 
light blues take some of the dye out of the vat and di¬ 
lute it in a great quantity of luke-warrn water; but this 
method is a bad one, for the goods dyed in this mixture 
has not so lasting a colour as dyed in the vat, as the 
altering ingredients which are put into the vat with the 
indigo; serves as much to dispose the pores of the sub¬ 
ject which is dipped in as to the opening of the colour¬ 
ing fluid which is to dye it, these concerns being ne- 
necessary for the adhession of the colour. The best 
method of making these very light blues, is to pass them 
either in a woad or indigo vat, out of which the colour 
has been worked, and begins to cool. The woad vat 
is preferable to the indigo as it does not colour so soon. 
The light blues made in vats that have been worked are 
duller than the others, but they may soon be roused by 
passing them through boiling water; this practice is e- 
ven necessary to the perfection of all indigo blues, and 
is also serviceable to those coloured with woad by li¬ 
vening the shade, and it also renders the colour more 
secure, by taking off all that is not well incorporated 
with the wool, it also prevents it from spoting the hands 
or linen which commonly happens when the dyers to 
gain time, neglect this precaution. * After the goods are 
taken out of the warm water, it is necessary to work 
them again in cold water. 

The best method of rendering the blue dye bright on 
cloths is to fill them with a thick liquor of melted soap 
and afterwards dense them from the soap with warm 
water, for deep blue it is necessary to run them in a 
cochineal water, though if the same method was taken 
with light blues they would loose their lustre and incline 
to a grey. I hope to have removed all difficulties on 
the preparation of blue, and also in the method of dying 
it. Some dyers, fcr the sake of gain, spare the indigo 
or the woad, and use for the blue the logwood, archl, 
&c. this ought to be expressly forbid; though this adul¬ 
terated blue is often brighter than a lasting or legitimate 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


39 


blue—this is to be noticed in my receipts on blue, &c. 
I shall now explain the theory of the invisible change 
of the blue dye. This colour which I shall here only 
consider in relation to its use in the dying of stuffs of 
what kind soever, has hitherto been extracted from the 
▼egitable kingdom, it does not appear that we can hope 
to use in this art the blues the painters employ—such 
as the Prussian blue, which belongs to the animal and 
mineral kind. The azure, which is a viterfied substance, 
the ultamarine which is prepared from a hard stone, the 
earth of which has a blue colour,&.c. Ttiese matters can¬ 
not without loosing therein, whole or in part, be re¬ 
duced into atoms sufficiently minute, so as to be sus¬ 
pended ip the saline liquid, which must penetrate the 
fibres of the animal and vegitable substances of which 
stuffs are manufactured, for under this name linen and 
cotton cloths must be comprehended, as well as those 
wove of silk and wool. 

Hitherto we know of but two plants that yield blue 
after their preparation—the one is the atis, or glano- 
tum, which is called pastel by some and by others it is 
called woad. Their preparation consists in a fermenta¬ 
tion continued even to the puteryfaction of all the parts 
of the plant, the root excepted, &- consequently in the 
unfolding of all their substance into a new combination 
and fresh order of these principles, which applied to any 
subject whatever, reflects the light on them very differ¬ 
ent from what it would be, if these same particles were 
still joined to those which the fermentation has separat¬ 
ed. 

The other plant is the amel, which is cultivated in the 
East and West Indies, and also in some parts of the U. 
States, out of which they prepare that drug called indi¬ 
go. In the preparation ot this plant the Indians and A- 
rnericans have found out the art of separating only the 
colouring parts of the plant from the useless ones; and 
the French and Spanish colonies have imitated them, 
and thereby made a considerable increase of commerce, 
the indigo is infused several ways so as to deposit on 
woolen stuffs the colouring parts required by the dyer; 


40 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE 


and also for linen and cotton it requires other prepara¬ 
tions different from colouring wool; the preparations are 
explained in the receipts. 

The reason why indigo does not dye a stuff of a last¬ 
ing blue, when its liquor is not green, is its solution 
not being complete, the alkali cannot act upon these 
first elementary particles, as for example, it acts on the 
tincture of violet, which is a perfect solution of the col¬ 
ouring parts of those fiarys which it turns green in an 
instant, and on the first contact. 

The preparation of the indigo, slow in winter, quick 
in summer,'and which may be acelleraled in winter by 
heating the liquor to fifteen or sixteen degrees, is a 
proof that a real fermentation takes place in the mixture, 
which opens the little lumps of indigo and divides them 
into particles of an extreme fineness; then their surfaces 
being multiplied they are so much the more equally dis¬ 
tributed in the liquor which deposits them equally on 
the subject diped into the dye. 

If the fermentation comes on hastily, in a few hours, 
whether on account of the heat of the air or by the help 
of a small fire a great quantity of flurry appears; it is 
blue and its reflection they have also named copperry, 
because the colour of the rain bow appears in it, and 
the red and the yellow here predominate: however this 
phenomenon is not peculiar to indigo, since the same 
reflection is perceived in all mixtures that are in actual 
fermentation, and particularly in those which contain 
fat particles blendeded with salts, urine, soot, and seve¬ 
ral other bodies put into fermentation, show on their sur¬ 
face the same variegated colours. The flurry of the 
indigo vat appears blue because exposed to the external 
air; but if a small portion of the liquor which is under it 
be taken up with a spoon it appears more or less green 
ih proportion as it is filled with colouring particles. In 
the course of those observations I shall show the cause 
of this difference, or at least a probable expectation of 
this change of blue, which I have said before is abso¬ 
lutely necessary in proceeding in the process described. 

When the vat is in this state, cotton, linen, &c. may 



THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 


41 


b© dyed in her, and the colours which they take are per¬ 
manent and will maintain them though boiled in soap— 
this is the proof given them preferable to any other, be¬ 
cause the, cotton, linen, &.c*. must needs be washed with 
it when dirty. 

The indigo liquor when in this state will make a last¬ 
ing colour without the addition of any other ingredient; 
though the dyer who uses this cold vat, add what they 
call beaver, this is a decoction of madder and bran made 
in common water, they make use of madder to insure the 
colour of the indigo, because this root affords a colour 
so adhessive, that it stands all proofs—they make use 
of the bran to soften the water which they imagine gen¬ 
erally to contain some portion of acid salt which accord¬ 
ing to their opinion must be deadened. 

As to the bran its use is not to deaden the pretended 
acid salt, but to disperse throughout a quantity of sizey 
matter, for the small portion of flour which remains in 
it, dividing itself into the liquor, must diminish in some 
measure its fluidity, and consequently prevent the col¬ 
ouring particles which are suspended in its being preci¬ 
pitated too quick in a liquor which had not acquired a 
certain degree of thickness. 

Notwithstanding this distributes throughout the liquor 
as well from the bran as from the madder, which also 
affords something gluttenous, the colouring particles 
will subside, if the liquor remains some days without be¬ 
ing stired, then the top of the liquor gives but a feeble 
tint to the body diped in, and if a strong one is required 
the liquor must be stired, and let rest an hour or two, 
that the gross parts may settle to the bottom which o- 
therwise would mix with the true colouring particles, 
and prejudice tiie dye, by depositing on the body, dyed 
a substance that would have but little adhesion, which 
in drying would become friable, and of which each mi¬ 
nute part would occupy a space where the true colour¬ 
ing particles could neither introduce nor deposit itself 
by an imediate action on the subject. 

One may easily concieve that the salts added to the 
indigo vats not only open the natural pores of the snb- 

d2 


42 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 


ject to be dyed, but also unfold the colouring atom of 
the indigo. 

In some preparations of stuffs to be dyed blue, the 
woolen stuffs are boiled in a solution of salts, in this 
preparation argal and allum are genarally used. In an 
hour t he stuff is taken out slightly squeezed, and kept 
damp some days in a cool place, that the saline liquor 
which remains in it may still act and prepare it for the 
reception of the dye of these ingreedients, in the decoc¬ 
tion of which it is plunged to boil again. Without this 
preparation, experience shows that the colour will not 
be lasting, at least for the greatest part; for it must be 
owned that there are some ingredients which yield 
lasting colours, though the stuff has not previously un¬ 
dergone this preparation, because the ingredients con¬ 
tains in itselfthese salts. 

It is therefore necessary, that the natural pores of 
the fibres of the wool, should he enlarged and cleaned 
by the help of those salts, which are always some what 
corroding, and perhaps they open the pores for the re¬ 
ception of the colouring atoms contained in the ingredi 
ents. The boiling of tins liquor drives in the atoms by 
repeated strokes, the pores already enlarged by these 
salts are further diluted by the heat of the boiling water. 
They are afterwards extracted l>y the external cold 
when the dyed matter is taken out of the liquor, w hen 
it in exposed to the external air, or w hen it is plunged 
into cold water. Thus tlie colouring matter is taken in 
and detained in the pores or fibers of the dyed body, 
by the fineness of the fibres, which have contracted 
and restored themselves to their first, and have resum¬ 
ed their primary stiffness upon being exposed to the 
cold. 

If besides this spring of the sides of the pores, it be 
supposed that the sides have been plastered inwardly 
with a layer of the saline liquor. It will appear plain¬ 
ly that this is another means employed by art to detain 
the colouring atom, for this atom having entered into 
the ports while the saline si men! of the sides was yet in 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


43 


a state of solution, and consequently fluid; and this ce¬ 
ment being afterwards congealed by the external cold. 
The atoms are thereby detained by the spring which 
has been mentioned, and by this saline cement, which 
by crystallization is become hard, forms a kind of mas- 
lie which is not easily removed. 

If the coloured atom (which is as small as the little 
eminence that appears at the entrance of the pore, and 
without which the subject will not appear dyed,) be suf¬ 
ficiently protubarent to be exposed to more powerful 
shocks than the resistance of the sides of the cement 
that retains it. Then the dye resulting from all these 
atoms sufficiently retained, will be extremely lasting, 
and in the rank of the best dye, provided the saline 
coat can neither be carried off' by cold water, (such as 
rain) nor calcined or reduced to powder, by ihe bright 
rays of the sun, fora very lasting colour must withstand 
these two proofs. No other can be expected in stuffs 
designed for apparel. 

1 know of but two salts in chemestry, which being once 
cristallized, can be moistened with cold water, with¬ 
out dissolving, and then a few besides these that can 
remain several days exposed to the ram, without being 
reduced to a flower, or a powder. These are tartar, 
either as taken from the wine vessels, or purified, and 
tartar ot vitriol. The latter vitriol may be mode by mix¬ 
ing a salt already al-cholized (or that may become such 
when the acid is drove out with a salt, when acid vit¬ 
riolic, as copperas and allurn) this is easily effected if 
it be weaker than the acid of vitriol. And such is the 
acid of all essential salts extracted from vegitables. 

I hope from the remark on the blue vat, the dyer 
will be enabled to proceed in colouring without any 
difficulty. I have had experience in the business, and 
tried many experiments in the art of colouring. The 
public may therefore depend on the correctness of 
this guide in every respect, as well in the process of 
milling cloths, as in colouring. I have given my ideas 
«m the subject as correctly as possible; and now 1 will 


44 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


proceed in a few remarks gathered from other brether- 
en In our line of business; though l will offer none to the 
public, except those which I know to be correct, and 
which cannot fail to be profitable to practitioners in our 
grand business, and l hope this little work may meet 
with good encouragement, as I have spent considera¬ 
ble labour in procuring correct ideas on the subject. 

A few Receipts for Golouring Cloths &c; 
FLESH COLOUR. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take two pounds of dryed 
walnut hulls, boil them well, run the cloth in this li¬ 
quor one hour, air, add one quarter of a pound of al- 
lutn and two ounces of red tartar, run the cloth as be¬ 
fore, fifteen minutes, air, and you will have a good 
colour. 


ORANGE COLOUR. 

To twenty yards of cloth; take two pounds of fus¬ 
tic chips, three ounces ofargal, and half a pound of 
©Hum; boil them well together, then run the cloth with 
the dye boiling, one hour, then air rince and shift the 
liquor from the boiler, and fill with fair water; then add 
three pounds of red wood, two pounds of madder, half 
& pound of allurn, and two ounces of acquefortis, boil 
this mixture well together with often stiring till the 
strength is out of the red wood, then run the cloth one 
hour, air, and add two ounces of cochineal, run again 
with the dye hot, and this will make a good colour. 

ORANGE. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take eight pounds of fus¬ 
tic, and four pounds of red wood, boil them well togeth¬ 
er, then add half a pound of allum.run ihe cloth in this 
liquor forty minutes, then air and let the dye steep a- 
while, then run again, one hour, air and add one gallon 
of sig, ru n ' 



THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


45 


BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take two bushels of but¬ 
ternut bark, let it steep over night, (though not boil) 
then run the cloth one hour, with the dye hot, then take 
the bark out of the dye, add one pound of copperas, 
and one quart of.sig run the cloth again with the dye 
hot one hour. 


CARBEAN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take nine pounds of cam¬ 
wood, boil well, run the cloth one hour, air, add half 
a pound of blue vitriol, one quarter of a pound of oil of 
vitriol, boil a few minutes, then run the cloth forty min¬ 
utes more, air, add one pound of copperas dissolved in 
vinegar, run again, and manage in this way till the col¬ 
our suits you. If it is not dark enough, take two 
ounces of virdegris made fine and dissolved in vinegar, 
add this to the dye, run the cloth in again. By adding 
two or three ounces, you may change this colour to a 
purple, which will be durable. 

CARBAGUH WITH NIQUAAGUA. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take'eight pounds of niqua- 
agua, and half a pound of fustic, boil well, then add 
half a pound of allum, run the cloth one hour, air, then 
the colour will bo red, add two ounces of blue vitriol, 
half an ounce of oil of vitriol, and one quart of sig, run 
the cloth forty minutes, air, then add one pound of log¬ 
wood; and one ounce of virdegris, boil well, run the 
cloth forty minutes, air, and saden with copperas by 
littles till the colour suits you. 


LONDON BROWN WITH RED WOOD. 

To twenty yards of cloth take two pounds of fustic, 
boil well, and add one pound of allum, run the cloth 
boiling one hour, air, rince and shift the liquor from the 





46 


THE“ CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 


kettle, fill with fresh water, add ten pounds of red wood, 
boil well, add half pound of allum, run the cloth fort/ 
minutes, air, let the dye steep awhile, run again and han¬ 
dle in this way till you have a good red ; (be cautious 
not to drive the dye too fast) keep the cloth in with fre¬ 
quent airing till the strength is well out of the dye; then 
add one gallon ofsig, run again, air, add one pound of 
logwood, boil well then add two ounces of verdigris pul¬ 
verized and dissolved in one pint of vinegar, run again 
and handle till your colour suits you. 

BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take two pounds of fustic, 
boil well, add a quarter of a pound of allum, run the 
cloth one hour boiling, air and rince, shift the liquor, 
fill with fair water, then add nine pounds of red wood, 
boil one hour, add half a pound of allum, run the cloth 
one hour, then add a quarter of a pound of pearl ash 
and quarter of a pound of allum, run one hour more and 
this will make a good red; then add half a pound of ar- 
gal, run half an hour, air, add one gallon of sig, run a- 
gain, &,c. 

SPANISH BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take one bushel of butter¬ 
nut bark and one bushel of walnut bark, boil well, run 
the cloth one hour, air, take the bark out of the dye, 
and add half a pound of copperas, run the cloth forty 
minutes, air and rince, shift the liquor from the boiler, 
fill with fair water, take two pounds of fustic chips, boil 
well, add half a pound of allum, run the cloth one hour, 
air, rince and shift the liquor from the boiler, fill with 
fresh water, add eight pounds of red wood, boil half an 
hour, add half a pound of allum, run the clolh one hour, 
air, add two ounces of oil of vitriol, run the cloth half 
an hour, then add half a pound of logwood, boil one 
hour, then add one gallon ofsig, run again, &c. 



THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE- 


47 


LIVER BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take eight pounds of fustic 
and two pounds of red wood, boil them two hours, run 
the cloth forty minutes, air and add four pounds of 
madder which has been soaked in warm water over 
night; let it simmer one hour, run the cloth one hour, 
air, add eight ounces of copperas, run the cloth again, 
&c. 


OLIVE BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take five pounds of fustic, 
boil and run the cloth one hour; air, add one bushel of 
butter nut bark, boil modertely one hour, run the cloth 
one hour, air, take the bark out of the dye and add six 
ounces of copperas, run again, &c. 

OLIVE BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take six pounds of fustic and 
one pound oflogwood; boil well run the cloth half an 
hour, then add one pound of madder, let it simmer half 
an hour, then run the cloth one hour, air and add four 
ounces of chymic, stir and mix it well with the dye, then 
run the cloth one hcwr, air, add one pound of logwood 
one gallon of sig must be added to the dye, boil and run 
the cloth as before one hour, air and add six ounces of 
copperas, run again, &c. 

OLIVE BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take seven pounds of fustic 
three quarters of a pound of logwood and half a pound 
of madder; boil one hour (it is best the madder should 
be soaked and simmered in a separate vessel, then add 
the liquor to this dye) boil one hour, then run the cloth 
one hpur, air and add four ounces of chymic, run the 
cloth half an honr, air, add two quarts of sig, run again, 
and air, add two ounces of copperas, run again, &c. 



43 


THE CLTHIERS GUIDE. 


LIGHT SNUFF. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take eight pounds of fustic 
chips and four pounds of red wood, boil them well and 
run the cloth in this liquor one hour, air, add half a 
pound of allum, run agian, air, add one gallon of sig, run 
again, air, then add a peck of soot of the chimney which 
has been soaked in warm water tw r o hours, (put the soot 
in a pail and place some of the hot dye on it) add it to 
the dye, run the cloth one hour and handle it till it suits 
you, &c. 


DARK SNUFF. 

To twenty pounds of cloth, take six pounds of fustic 
chips, boil well, add two ounces of allum, run the cloth 
one hour, air, add two pounds of camwood, and one 
pound of madder, let it simmer one hour, then run the 
cloth one hour, air, add a half a pound of copperas, run 
half an hour and if the colour is not dark enough add a 
little more copperas, run again, &,c. 

SNUFF. 


To twenty yards of doth, take one bushel of buter nut 
hark and one bushel of walnut bark, boil moderately on© 
hour, run the cloth one iiour or till the strength is well 
out of the dye; then air the cloth and take the bark out 
of the dye and add one pound of copperas, stir well, run 
one hour, air, rince and shift the liquor from the boiler, 
fill with fresh water, then add four pounds of fustic, boil 
one hour and add half a pound of allum, stir well and run 
the cloth in this one hour, air and add two pounds of 
red wood, boil well and add half a pound of allum, run 
the cloth one hour and air, and if not dark enough, add 
one gallon of sig, run again and manage in this way till 
the colour is such as you wish; if it has not a good shade 
add half a pound of pearl ash and run again, &c. 


49 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE, 

BATWING BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take two pounds of fustic and four 
pounds of logwood, boil well, then add two poundsjof madder 
and half a pound of allum, let it simmer half an hour (it is 
best the madder should be soaked in water) then run the cloth 
one hour, air and add one pound of copperas and one gallon of 
sig, run again, &c. 

SLATE BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take one bushel of butter nut 
bark^boil and run the cloth twenty minutes, aiy and run again, 
air, add more copperas, if it is not dark enough, (for it must 
be very dark) when dark enough, air and rince, shift the li¬ 
quor from the boiler, fill with fresh water, boil, then add half 
a pound of chymic, stir well, run the cloth fifteen minutes, 
air, and if the colour is^not dark enough (for it grows lighter) 
add six ounces of logwood and two ounces of blue vitriol, boil 
and run again, &c. 

DOVE BROWN. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take one peck of chesnut bark and 
twoounces ef'logwood, boil them together one hour, then add 
two pounds of copperas and one ounce of chymic, and stir the 
dye well, run the cloth twenty minutes, air, and if it is not 
dark enough add four ounces of copperas and run again, air, 
and if required add more blueing, &c. silk may be dyed in 
this. 


PE ARL COLOUR. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take tour quarts of wheat bran, 
put it in a bag and boil it an hour and a half, then take it out 
and let it drain, and squeeze it as dry as you can leting the 
liquor fall into the dye, then add two ounces of allum; let it 
boil and scum it, then run the cloth one hour and add four 
pounds of logwood chips, put them in a bag and boil them well, 
then take the logwood chips out of the dye, run the cloth thir¬ 
ty minutes, air and add half an ounce of blue vitriol and run 
again, &c. 

BROWN DRAB. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take a peck of chesnut bark, two 
pounds of fustic, two ounces of logwood, boil them well, then 
add two ounces of chymic, run the cloth in this liquor twenty 
minutes, air and add two ounces of copperas, and manage in 
this way till the colour suits you. 

E 


50 


THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE. 


DRAB. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take black oak and chesnut bark, 
one peck ofeach, boil them well, run the cloth in the liquor 
twenty minutes, air, and saden with copperas till the colour 
suits you. 


DRAB. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take four ounces of nut galls and 
four ounces of fustic, boil them well together, run the cloth in 
this liquor twenty minutes, air, and add three ounces of cop¬ 
peras, run again. 


DRAB. 

Take six ounces of nut galls pulverized, three ounces of 
brimstone, four ounces ofallum; boil them well together, run 
the cloth in this liquor twenty minutes, air and add one ounce 
of copperas, run again, &c. 

DRAB. 

Take one pound of fustic and half a pound of logwood, boil 
well, then add four ounces ofallum, run the cloth in this li¬ 
quor twenty minutes and saden withcoperas,alittleatatime 
till the colour suits you, &c. 

FOREST COLOUR. 

Take two pounds of fustic, six ounces oflog wood, boil well, 
then add six ounces of chymic, run the cloth twenty minutes, 
then add six ounces oflog wood, boil a few minutes, run the 
cloth again, air, add two ounces of madder and two ounces of 
red tartar, let it simmer, run again, air and add four ounces 
of copperas, run again, &c. 

LIVER DRAB. 

Take one pound of fustic, half a pound of logwood, one 
pound of madder, boil them well, run the cloth in this liquor 
twenty minutes, air and add halfa pound of filings of iron, 
boil and run again fifteen minutes, air, and add one ounce of 
copperas, run again, &c. 


LIVER DRAB 

Take two ounces of nut galls, one ounce of logwood, two 
ounces of allum, one ounce ofcream of tartar, boil these well 
together, run the cloth in this liquor half an hour, air, and 
eiuien with copperas to suit yourself, &:c. 




THE CLOTHIERS GUIDE* 


51 


GREEN DRAB. 

Ta.ke one pound of fustic, four ounces of logwood chips, 
boil well, then add halfa pound ofallum, two ounces of chy- 
mic, mix the dye well, run the cloth half an hour, air, and add 
one ounce of copperas, run again, &c. 


MADDER DRAB. 

Take three pounds of good madder and one pound of fustic, 
let them simmer one hour, add two ounces of allum, run the 
cloth half an hour, air add four ounces of logwood and one 
pound ot filings of iron, boil one hour, run again, &c. 

N.B. Y ou may add a little copperas if required. 

RED DRAB. 

Take three ounces ofallum, half a pound of fustic, six oun¬ 
ces of logwood chips, two ounces of madder and two ounces 
of camwood, boil this well together, then add a quart of vine¬ 
gar, run the cloth one hour, air-, add three ounces of copperas, 
&-c. 


YELLOW DRAB. 

Take one pound of fustic, two ounces of madder and two 
ounces-of logwood, boil well then add four ounces ofallum, 
ran the cloth half an hour, air, add two ounces of copperas, 
run again, &c. 


FOREST BROWN. 

Take six pounds offustic, boil one hour, add two ounces of 
allum, run the cloth half an hour, then add two pounds oflog- 
wood, boil well run again, air; and saden with copperas, &c. 


RAVEN. 

Take three quarts of wheat bran soak it in vinegar two days, 
place the bag of bran in the boiler, let it boil one hour, then 
take it out by squeezing it well into the dye, then add one 
pound of madder, and one pound of allum, run the cloth twenty 
minutes, air and add four ounces of chymic, run again, air and 
add of the chy mic until there be one pound of the chy mic in 
the dye, never add more than fourounces at a time, then add 
two pound of logwood chips, boil well, then add four ounces 
of verdigris pulverized and made fine, run the cloth in again, 
air, add one quarter of apound of copperas, run again, &c. 




52 


the clothiers guide 


BLACK. 

To twenty yards of cloth, take six pounds of logwood chips, 
two pounds of sumac, and one pound of fustic, boil them well, 
let it stand over night, run the cloth one hour, air, run again, 
air and add one gallon of sig and one pound of copperas, and 
two ounces of verdigris, run again, air and add one gallon of 
chimney soot, run again, &e. 

BLACK. 

To twenty yards cf cloth, take one bushel of chesnut bark, 
boil till the strength is out, run the cloth one hour, air, add 
one pound of copperas, run again half an hour, air, rince, shift 
the liquor from the boiler, fill with fresh water, then add six 
pounds of logwood, half a pound of fustic, boil two hours, run 
the cloth one hour, air, then add one pound of copperas, one 
peck of soot and one gallon of sig, run again, &c. 

BLACK. 

Take one pound of blue vitriol, dissolve it in boiling water, 
run the cloth one hour, air, add six pounds of logwood and 
one pound of fustic, boil one hour, run the cloth one hour, air, 
and add two ounces of verdigris pulverized and dissolved in 
vinegar, and one gallon of sig, run the cloth one hour, air, add 
one pound of copperas, run again, &c. 

OLIVE GREEN. 

Take six pounds of fustic, boil well, then add four ounces of 
allum, run the cloth in this liquor one hour, air, add half a 
bushel of butter nut bark, boil moderately one hour, run tho 
cloth one hour, air, add one pound of copperas, run again. 


TO TAKE THE COLOUR OUT OF CLOTH. 

Fill the boiler with fair water add one pound of stone lime, 
one pound of allum, and one ounce of oil c f vitriol must {be 
placed into the water when boiling, stir well, run your cloth 
in this one hour, air, and if the colour is not all out add more 
lime, vitriol, <&c. run again. 

N. B. The preceding receipts are intended for tw r enty yards 
of doth, though any number of yards may be coloured by ad¬ 
ding dye stuff in proportion, though the boiler should pever 
be crowded; but let the cloth while in the boiler remain open 
and loose, so the dye may have a free access through the 
cloth. 









V, 














033 266 853 J> 


V \ 

TO THE READER. 


I have endeavoured to render this trea¬ 
tise as brief and plain as possible. I have 
explained the nature of dye stuffs and the art 
of dying, so uniformly, that by following the 
directions you may depend on making good 
colours. 

This pamphlet being small also, renders 
it the more convenient, as the traveling man 
may carry it in his pocket without being the 
least discommoded. I hope 1 have not wrote 
any thing more than will prove beneficial. 

Yours respectfully, &c. 

H. WARFIELD. 




